Hong Kong’s soaring and seemingly endless skyline is unforgettable. Whether I viewed it from high above the skyscrapers on Victoria Peak or from the Star Ferry crossing Victoria Harbor, my gaze was always drawn to its sheer size and magnificence.

I visited the bustling region in Spring of 2019 and explored Kowloon and Hong Kong Island on meandering walks and MTR (subway) rides through the city’s diverse neighborhoods. Three months later the peaceful region exploded in pro-democracy rallies. The streets filled with masked protesters and police armed with tear gas, water canons and riot gear.